Nice to have a fellow professional wine critic who reviews older wines. We know the problem is the wines may no longer be easily available, so—at least in my case, and I think in yours, Meg—we are reviewing the winery, winemaker as much as the specific vintage. A positive review of a seven-year-old bottle informs what you may expect from a younger bottle you could find. There are plenty of reviewers tasting just-released wines—or even wines still in barrel. But wine evolves, and Gus Clemens on Wine and Maker's Table give perspectives on how a maker's efforts will fare when they are past their baby wine stage.
Gus, many thanks for these observations (and for sharing the comment with your network, too). Producers are likely to pull library wines for us when we visit, but samples are almost always current-release with the expectation of swift coverage. I don't know how common it is for media to hold onto samples, but in this case it paid dividends, at least for one of those two wines.
I have a slew of other seriously structured reds to taste, all of which have been held for at least a few years. So, stay tuned.
Nice to have a fellow professional wine critic who reviews older wines. We know the problem is the wines may no longer be easily available, so—at least in my case, and I think in yours, Meg—we are reviewing the winery, winemaker as much as the specific vintage. A positive review of a seven-year-old bottle informs what you may expect from a younger bottle you could find. There are plenty of reviewers tasting just-released wines—or even wines still in barrel. But wine evolves, and Gus Clemens on Wine and Maker's Table give perspectives on how a maker's efforts will fare when they are past their baby wine stage.
Gus, many thanks for these observations (and for sharing the comment with your network, too). Producers are likely to pull library wines for us when we visit, but samples are almost always current-release with the expectation of swift coverage. I don't know how common it is for media to hold onto samples, but in this case it paid dividends, at least for one of those two wines.
I have a slew of other seriously structured reds to taste, all of which have been held for at least a few years. So, stay tuned.
Two very underrated producers IMO in Brocard and Smith-Madrone.
Agreed!