Maker's Table

O Grinho

Bonny Doon Vineyard
Vinho Grinho
2009
Current price: about $20 (as club members we paid $17)

Made from 56% Portuguese loureiro grapes and 44% Spanish albariño, this wine bears an Iberian mien. Its name is a send-up of the region's vinho verde, but with a decidedly Californian slant, and the grapes are biodynamic, from the Ca' del Solo vineyard in Monterey.

Clear and pale gold, it's lavishly aromatic, with notes of spring flowers—daffodil, strawberry, and blackberry—plus orange blossom and thyme. On the palate it's bright and cleansing, with a citrusy edge and more green herbs. It's bracingly acidic, with a long slow finish.

It would be brilliant with seafood, though we enjoyed it with pork tenderloin seared with fresh thyme and rosemary, the wine's vivid freshness a delightful complement to the sweet rare meat and pungent herbs.

A mouthful of spring sunshine. Delicious.

  

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But Not Least

Zeta
Alicante Monastrell
2006
Current price: about $12

Deep barn red with a slightly purple undercast. The nose is floral and spicy, with pepper and sage but also something a little dark, like mushrooms. My mouth waters just smelling it. On the palate it's savory, but with a bloom of fruit and spice. It has a long and pleasant finish.

Tonight I'm sautéing red onions and peppers and rosemary with last night's leftover grilled lamb. We'll have it on whole wheat flatbread, and pour this wine. It might be just right.

  

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Old World, Old Vines, Young Price

Celler de Capçanes
Mas Donís Barrica Old Vines
2007
Current price: about $10

A bright, juicy rose-purple, the wine gives up a subtle but still earthy nose; it smells like Old World, not New. Remarkably soft and well-integrated on the tongue, I get anise and lavender and some nice dark fruit. It has a pleasant, lasting finish, not unlike the sensation of holding a warm cherry in your mouth.

It continues to amaze and delight that such drinkable European wines can be had for a mere ten dollars, US.

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A Dark Spaniard

Buil and Giné
Toro DO
2004
Price: $24

The Toro Denominación de Origen is located along Spain's Duero river valley, where the stony soils and relatively high altitudes produce concentrated, high-alcohol wines. This one's 15% alcohol, but it goes down easily, so pace yourself. Made from 100% Tinta de Toro, a regional cultivar of Tempranillo.

Brilliant ruby-purple, it looks like a much younger wine. It has a nose of licorice and black cherry, a bit like warm black raspberries, with a little spice adding high notes. Surprisingly supple on the palate, smooth and even, with bright fruit sliding easily into dark, and a little astringent bite at the end. Smoky, sultry, plummy, luscious.

Pues, entonces?  Buy it, drink it, love it.

Cooling it on the Rocks

Las Rocas de San Alejandro
Viñas Viejas Garnacha
2003

We bought quite a bit of this wine a while ago for twelve or thirteen dollars a bottle. When it was new it was all elbows and knees, but it had plenty of stuffing, so we thought it could age. We laid this bottle down, and now, five or six years later, it's really terrific: deep red in color, with a spicy, peppery nose and a mouth full of earthy, joyful fruit. There's something like licorice and something like mint, here, and though it's still a bit astringent, its tannins have calmed down, giving way to meaty layers of fruit and spice and earth. It makes me think of the Rhône, a bit. I wish we'd bought lots more.

The lesson? Trust your instincts. If you find a bottle that you think will age, buy three, or six, or twelve, and lay them down. You'll thank yourself later.

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Artful

Artazuri
Navarra Garnacha Rosé
2007

This garnacha (grenache) rosé is a lively deep pink, with a nose of green apple, citrus, raspberries, and violets. It's crisp and thin in the mid palate, and cleansing as it slides down. Beautiful, sophisticated, and wonderful on its own.

Price: $13
Drinks like: $16
Bang for the buck: 123%

The Rocks

Las Rocas de San Alejandro
Rosado San Alejandro Calatayud
2007

This rosé is crisp and full of fresh berries. It's a pleasing color, rosy pink with a scarlet sunset blush. It has a full nose, plus lots of acid balancing the fruit (strawberries, apple, grapefruit). Great for a warm early summer supper of grilled chicken and fresh green beans. Rosés seem to have their own little category.

Price: $14
Drinks like: $14
Bang for the buck: 100%

Bright, Fruity, Fun

Dehesa de Rubiales
Alaia Vino de Tierra de Castilla y León
2004

In its fourth day (on nitrogen) and still tastes great. Bright and full of fruit, but with good acid, it's great on its own or with food. For the price, you can't beat it.

Price: $11
Drinks like: $12
Bang for the buck: 110%