Maker's Table

Two Whites with the Salmon

The leaves are budding, the daffodils are open, and yesterday the bears strolled through our backyard. It's time to celebrate spring.

For our first big warm-weather dinner party, I planned to roast salmon in butter with fresh herbs (following Bittman) and to make a batch of fresh pasta. For wine, we wanted a White Burgundy—something flinty enough to cut the rich fish.

I went wine shopping with some trepidation. White Burgundy isn't our usual fare, so I wasn't sure how to pick a good one. Standing alone in the wine store before an array of selections, no store clerk in sight, I jumped online to find reviews. I landed on a J. Drouhin Pouilly-Fuissé 2007, which, through the drinking-straw screen of my handheld, seemed to promise the seriousness we were after. It was on sale for about $23. I bought two bottles.

But then I hit the grocery store for the rest of the meal's ingredients. That store also has a good wine selection, and the always-helpful (and ever-present) wine manager told me that, for the money, I should try a French Sauvignon Blanc instead. He offered an Henri Bourgeios Petit Bourgeois 2007, for $14. Another two bottles went into the cart. I figured I could risk it: neither wine would be bad, and this gave me options to discuss when I got home.

In the end, of course, we opened them both. We wanted to know which one worked better with the fish, and to hear our guests' reactions.

The Bourgeois was the winner. It was citrusy and full of fruit, with a bright, pleasant finish. A simple vin de pays from the Loire, it was labeled as a varietal—Sauvignon Blanc—probably to capture the American market. Guests preferred it to the restrained and somewhat austere Pouilly-Fuissé, made in a solid French style. Where the Sauvignon Blanc was exuberant and fun—and not very French—the Pouilly-Fuissé was patrician, an old guard white that made you work for your pleasure.

I can't help feeling like we did the Pouilly-Fuissé a bit of a disservice, serving it against such a young buck. But with the last rays of spring sun streaming across our table, and the robin singing his evening song to the twilight, it's no wonder that "exuberant and fun" won our hearts.

J. Drouhin Pouilly-Fuissé 2007
Price: $23
Drinks like: $15
Bang for the buck: 65%

Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois 2007
Price: $14
Drinks like: $18
Bang for the buck: 129%

Shrimp + Asparagus + Greens = Spring

Here's another three ingredient meal, ready in a few minutes.

The Three Ingredients
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
2-3 cups mesclun salad greens, washed and spun dry
1 pound fresh asparagus

The Other Ingredients That Aren't Supposed to Count
1 lemon, cut into thirds
3 garlic cloves, minced
4 Tbs olive oil
paprika
salt and pepper

In a small bowl, combine the shrimp, 1 Tbs olive oil, the juice of 1/3 of the lemon, 3/4 of the minced garlic, a few shakes of paprika, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Toss with a fork and let marinate for 5 to 10 minutes.

Juice another 1/3 of the lemon into another bowl. Add the remaining minced garlic, 3 Tbs olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Whisk this dressing together and toss with the greens. Divide the greens onto two plates and garnish with the remaining 1/3 lemon, cut into two wedges.

Snap the asparagus and discard the tough ends. Rinse and place in a pan with half an inch of salted water. Cover and bring to a boil. Cook for 2-4 minutes, until bright green.

Meanwhile, heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 1 Tbs olive oil, let it heat one minute, then add the shrimp plus its marinade. Cook 2 minutes, then toss to cook the other side. Cover briefly to steam the shrimp and cook through. Remove the cover for the last minute of cooking.

Drain the asparagus. Place the shrimp on top of the greens and set the asparagus alongside. Crack a little fresh black pepper over the plate. Serve with warm crusty bread and chilled Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier.

Easy Tilapia

We like tilapia for its mild flavor, meaty texture, and relatively low price. It's also, as a farmed product, a reasonably sustainable choice (although farmed fish does have its problems). I often pan-fry fish using the traditional method: dredge in flour, dip in egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in oil. For want of an egg, I devised this method. I doubt I'll go back. The mustard and fresh thyme provide a bright, sharp, counterpoint to the unctuousness of the fish. Delicious.

Pan-fried Tilapia with Mustard and Fresh Thyme

Ingredients
4 tilapia fillets
3 Tbs coarse prepared mustard
3 Tbs mayonnaise
2-3 Tbs fresh thyme (I used lemon thyme) or 1 tsp dried
1 cup Panko breadcrumbs
flour for dredging
salt and pepper
oil for frying

Method
In a small bowl, combine the mustard, mayonnaise, and fresh thyme.

Rinse the tilapia fillets and pat them dry. Dredge in flour and sprinkle with salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Smear one fillet with the mustard mixture on both sides, then coat with breadcrumbs. Repeat with the remaining fillets.

Fry in oil over medium-high heat until crisp and browned, about 4-5 minutes per side. Serve with chunks of fresh lemon.